Then I may add a diffuser above the LED’s, then the polycarbonate protector and the final lid to the plastic shell. This is needed so the LED’s won’t short out against the metal frame. The while film is used as the backing which all the LEDs will be stuck on to. We’ll start with the empty shell and I decided to put the metal frame back in to help keep the plastic shell rigid. Now’s we can finally start putting the light panel together. There’s also a thick white film which I have a perfect use for in this project. There are also two polarization films which are of little use to me and a second bonus stronger diffusion film. What I was really looking for was this diffusion film which can be used to soften the light from the new light panel. The first is the actual glass liquid crystal display, which I quickly cracked since the frame was no longer protecting it. The LCD panel is made up from a few different layers of materials. I’m not sure why this white tape is so sensitive, but it didn’t seem to cry out in pain when I touched it. There’s a few other parts in the LCD panel assembly that I wanted to salvage. The LCD panel is held in with a few more screws and pops right out and the rest of the support frame comes out, leaving just the plastic shell. For now, I’m going to remove the hinges, but will probably put them back on later. The lid latch can come out and this one has a nice little rare earth magnet hidden in there that I could use elsewhere. With a little light prying, they come right apart. The Dell displays are really easy to dismantle because most of them use the same screws and also snap together. I’m basically going to scrap everything except for the cover and the glass, which really isn’t glass, but probably some kind of polycarbonate. You can also use an old flat panel monitor but I like how thin the laptop displays are, but if they aren’t old enough, they can be too thin to hold everything. We’ll start off with this old Dell laptop with a 15” display. If you’d like to help sponsor our videos, and also receive early viewing, and our Premium content on our web site, please follow the link below. This video series is brought to you in part by our Patreon subscribers, our premium subscribers are, , and. Now this really isn’t designed for lighting of plants, so if you’re here for plant lighting, you’re probably in the wrong spot, it’s really used for doing video taping and some camera work. It’s used for adjusting the intensity of the light – brighten things up, makes things look pretty good and it costs about 25 dollars in parts and a few used things that you might have laying around. Now this panel uses this nice little remote control. Secure it tightly and our panel is finished.I thought I’d take a few minutes today and show you this light panel that I made. Last but not least, we need to mount the whole panel to the tripod with a M5 screw and a bold. I also put some velcro tape on the back of the panel so it can hold the adapter in place. Strip the ends and connect it to the step down converter. For the power source I used an old laptop's power adapter which is just right for this project. While waiting for paint to dry I modeled a simple wing nut frame for a nut and bold so we can easily adjust the angle of our panel. To prevent iron from oxidizing I quickly coat it with anti corrosion paint and we are almost done. After that, drill a 5 cm hole in the middle of the steel base so we could later attach it to the tripod. At the back also attach a step down converter with two small screws in the middle and connect it with main cable with another two 20 cm in length wires. If it is everything ok after inserting the screws the final thing is to sand the whole frame a bit and mount the led strip panel to our frame with a few screws. Now we need to drill some 6 mm holes in the wooden frame and the steel base.
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